May 2026
Pickaway to Garden
Mother May I?
By Paul Hang
When I thought of this childhood game, I had to look up how the game is played. Do you remember? I thought about the game because this May we seem to be playing Mother Nature May I? Mother Nature May I prepare the garden for planting or is the ground too wet? Or, is it too cold? May I plant my onion sets? May I set out my cabbage and broccoli plants? May I plant seeds of lettuce? How about seeds of marigold and zinnia? May I mow the lawn? The answer is No, because you didn’t start the question with Mother May I?
Actually, this May the answer to those, and other gardening questions, is Mother May I check the weather? This May has alternatively been warm or cold, wet or dry. What is a person to do Mother? First of all, we have to decide whether the weather is nice enough for us to even go outside. Then we have to decide if the conditions are right for what we intend to do. Different people have different tolerances in what weather they will work. Scandinavians say, “there is no such thing as bad weather only bad clothing.” So, discomfort comes from being unprepared and not from external circumstances. Does that sound like your mother? It certainly sounds like mine.
Next question, are the conditions right for what we want or need to do? How wet is the soil? If we gently squeeze a golf ball sized handful of soil and drop from waist high and it breaks apart the soil is not too wet. What is the temperature of the soil? If the soil temperature is 50 degrees we can plant our cabbage, broccoli, onions and lettuce seeds and plants. If the soil is 65 degrees we can plant seeds of most other vegetables and flowers. If the air temperature is going to cause frost it is best to not plant plants. If we have plants in the ground with frost we better cover them. We can mow the lawn at any temperature for which we can dress. If the grass is wet, better wait. With these precautions obeyed, Mother Nature may allow.
May will bring flowers even if we didn’t get much in the way of April showers. Surely the weather will settle down and moderate eventually. Frost in May? Mother Nature may.
The Master Gardener Volunteers are having their Plant Sale on May 16, 9am-1pm in the parking lot at the Pickaway County Library on N. Court St. Lots of plants, annuals and perennials are for sale. And, as always, the Helpline can be reached by calling the OSU Extension Office at 740-474-7534.
Things to do in the garden:
Everything! The month of May is a busy one. You can direct-seed corn, beans, potatoes, melons, cucumbers and squash. Those last three are usually planted in “hills” of groups of three or four plants. Place cheesecloth or row cover cloth over vines until they bloom. With any luck you will have prevented the cucumber beetles from invading the plants. This also works on preventing the caterpillars of cabbage, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts. Don’t take the cloth off these as they don’t flower before harvest.
You can set out tomato, pepper and eggplant plants if the soil is warm (60 degrees). There is still a chance of frost but each week the chances become less and less. Be prepared to cover those tender plants if frost threatens. Don't be tempted to over-fertilize tomatoes, extra nitrogen will delay ripening and produce more vine than fruit. Remember tomatoes can be planted deep with the top few branches of leaves above ground. Roots will form along the buried stem. If you stake your tomatoes put the stakes in before you plant. Consider pruning your tomatoes and peppers. Look it up.
If you plan to put houseplants outside for the summer, a period of transitioning to the new environment will help assure their health and vigor. Fertilize and place in the shade. You can divide and move perennials now. As the soil warms (50 degrees) you can plant summer-flowering bulbs such as caladiums, cannas, dahlias, and gladioluses. You can begin spraying roses for black spot following the directions on the product.
Cut the seed pods off your lilacs (after the blooms fade), but do not prune the stems. If your lilacs are getting overgrown and leggy, cut a third of the old stems this year at the ground. Do this to a third next year and the final third the year after that. This way you will rejuvenate the bushes. Stake or cage floppy perennials like peonies. For bigger peonies, remove small buds near the larger ones. Ants on buds are not harmful.
If you have a home orchard remove any fallen fruit and dispose of them by burying or putting them in the trash. Don't put them into the compost heap unless it is really "cooking." (Our compost heaps don't "cook" unless we turn them regularly.)This will help prevent disease. Remember "June drop." It is a time when fruit trees rid themselves of excess fruit. This is a natural process. Then thin apples, peaches and other tree fruit (not cherries) to a fruit every six inches. Pines can be pruned back. Cut just half of new “candle” growth, otherwise the branch will grow no further.
Mulch your beds after the soil has warmed. When you set out those tender plants protect against cutworms that can chew off new transplants. Use collars of aluminum foil, plastic, cardboard or other material to encircle the stem. The collars should extend into the soil an inch and above an inch or two. There are pesticides that can help control these pests (Google "cutworms extension”). I have also placed a toothpick in the ground right next to the plant stem with success.
This is a busy time for pollinators. When you spot a bug identify it before reaching for the spray. Fully 97% of the bugs in our gardens are beneficial or of no threat. Singular bugs are almost always beneficial predators. Crowds are often pests. Know your enemy! Consider starting a compost pile. Grass clippings, if not mulched and left on the lawn are a great “green” to add to the “brown.” Search (compost extension) for recipes.
Finally, it’s not how fast you mow but how high. Mow at least 3 inches high for a healthy lawn.
April 2026
PICKAWAY TO GARDEN
Bad Seed
By Paul J. Hang
Few people remember the 1956 movie by that name. Nor do they recall the remake in 2018. The remake was not as terrifying as the first. I am no movie critic but a gardener. For a gardener, a bad seed can be a seed that does not germinate, not a child with serial killer tendencies. A bad seed could also be one that will result in an undesirable plant, like the invasive garlic mustard.
Seeds are amazing. I can’t begin to adequately cover them in these short paragraphs. (If I cover them they may sprout.) I always tread a fine line between scientist and poet without being either. Seeds come in many forms: kernels, acorns, nuts, samaras and catkins. Seeds are contained in several forms: pods, cones, husks, scales and fleshy coatings e.g. apples, cherries and paw paws. In fact, seeds are the fruit of plants. What we often call fruit are merely the carriers of seeds, their capsules.
Animals don’t produce the next generation by seeds but by sperm and egg. They produce embryos and eggs. Plants use something similar, pollen and ovules to produce seeds. Plants use the male anthers and female stigma. We are all familiar with what animals use. Both are methods to carry on the next generation of the species. Animals carry the method with them, with the individual. The method for plants is separate from the individual. The seed by itself carries the next generation on its own, waiting for the right conditions before germinating. As Thoreau said, “Every plant can be born again in every seed.”
Seeds come in all sizes, from a coconut which weighs 60 lbs. and nearly 20 inches in diameter and orchids whose seeds are barely visible and would take thousands to equal a grain of sand. Perhaps the most familiar, and amazing, are the seed balls, which hold three to four hundred small seeds, of the sycamore tree. From that small seed grows the largest tree in our latitude. There are some seeds that are 2,000 years old and have germinated. There are several seed banks which safeguard the future of our planet. Such a seemingly lifeless speck is a marvelous and complex thing full of wonder. As Thoreau in his book “Faith of a Seed, says, “The very earth itself is a granary.””
April 24th is Arbor Day, time to plant trees. On April 25th join the City Tree Commission, and city workers for an Arbor Day celebration at Barthelmas Park at 9 am to noon. Along with Arbor Day we will be celebrating the 1,000th tree planted in the city since the beginning of the City Tree Commission. Watch how to plant trees successfully. There will be information for adults and activities for kids. Free tree seedlings will be given away as long as supplies last. It should be Treemendous!
Things to do in the garden:
Tomato, eggplant and pepper seeds should be started indoors. The seedlings should be moved from the cells after 4 weeks into larger pots. Move them into the garden only after hardening them off and the danger of frost is past. As usual make sure you water-in the transplants. When you water, water deeply (top six inches wet) and water the base of the plant not the foliage. Water when the plants need it, not every day. Most plants require 1 to 1 and a half inches of water per week.
Vegetables that can be planted by seed directly into the garden are: beets, carrots, peas, onions, spinach, leaf lettuce, radishes. These should be watered enough to keep the soil moist to begin germination. Don’t let them dry out. Beets and carrots should be thinned at the seedling stage. Cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli plants can be planted as soil and weather conditions allow. The soil temperature for cool weather plants should be 50 degrees, warm weather plants at least 60 and some even higher. Put an inch of compost on the beds.
Use row covers (Google it) on your vegetables right after planting to keep the bad bugs off. For vegetables that produce fruit (beans, cucumber, pepper, squash, etc.) remove the covers after blooming to let the pollinators go to work. Tomatoes are self-pollinating and so you could leave the covers on. For those that don’t need pollinating (Cabbage, broccoli, onions, chard, kale, lettuce, beets and radishes, etc.) you can leave the covers on until harvest. Make sure you buy the right covers that let in enough light and rain. I have found this to be an effective method to protect plants without insecticides. Place collars around transplants that are susceptible to cut worms.
Most annual flowers can be seeded directly into the soil after the danger of frost has abated towards the end of the month. Some popular annuals that you should consider starting indoors are: snapdragon, wax begonia, sweet William, impatiens, sweet alyssum, petunia, gloriosa daisy, blue salvia, viola, pansy and zinnia, among others. This can save you a considerable amount of money that you can then spend on a perennial (native) plant.
Fertilize lawns lightly, if at all. The time to re-seed is when night time temps consistently reach 50 degrees and above. This is also the time to aerate lawns. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide now to prevent crabgrass, unless you plan to seed. When common lilac or Ohio buckeye begins to bloom it is too late for a pre-emergent herbicide to be effective and too early for a post-emergent. Leave clippings on the lawn. Their nitrogen content is high and will reduce the need to fertilize. Mowing height of at least three inches will retard the growth of crab grass and other weeds.
Unless you are prepared to cover plants in case of frost, don’t put out those tender plants such as tomatoes and peppers until mid-May or later when the soil warms up. The average last frost date is now April 23rd. There is a 50/50 chance of frost then and the chance decreases about 10% per week after that. Cool season transplants, after hardening them off, can be planted now (Lettuce, broccoli, kale, cabbage, and cauliflower).
Spring flowering bulbs should be fertilized after they bloom. Remember to leave the leaves of bulbs until they yellow, brown is better. If April brings its showers don’t work the soil if it is too wet. Wait until it dries out a bit. If it seems wet enough to make a clay pot, wait. Squeeze a ball of earth about the size of golf ball and let it drop from waist high, if it breaks apart it’s ready to be worked. Don’t apply mulch until May. Allow the soil to warm.
Cut back your ornamental grasses to six inches or to the green stems. They can be divided now. Cut back your butterfly bushes, which have proved to be invasive, if you must. Prune spring blooming shrubs after they bloom. Bagworms on shrubs and trees hatch out shortly after the Snowmound Spirea blooms. This is when you can spray an insecticide (Bacillus thuringiensis, also called Bt, read the label) to kill the caterpillars. Now is the time to prune roses. Depending on the variety, you may prune back to a foot in height or to green growth. Fertilize monthly until Labor Day. You can plant new ones now. Large hostas can be divided as soon as they emerge.Wait until several 50 plus degree days in a row before cleaning up debris of stems to save beneficial insects. If in doubt store them temporarily before putting them in the compost heap. Don’t prune your oak trees after the middle of the month or after they leaf out. Sap beetles are attracted to the open wounds and will bring oak wilt, a disease which will kill them and has been found in this part of the state. If pruning can’t be avoided after that, paint the cuts with a pruning sealant.
To identify the plants and trees around us, these two Plant ID apps can help; Pl@ntNet and iNaturalist. For information about planting and mulching trees see bygl.osu.edu. Gardening questions? Call the helpline at the Pickaway County Extension office at 740-474-7534.
March 2026
PICKAWAY TO GARDEN
Happy New Year?
By Paul Hang
This column was originally published in March of 2012. I thought a re-run might be fun. Notice how some references don’t apply to today.
For some reason I find it hard to believe that March is already here. Perhaps it is because we have had so little winter. Usually, by now, we have experienced so many days of cold and dreary weather that we are grateful for the promise of spring. But as I write this this winter has been pretty puny, so far. Yea right!
Robert Frost accurately described the weather in March in one of his poems. When we have a sunny day with a chill wind it feels like April. When the day is sunny and the wind still we feel we are in May. "But if you so much as dare to speak/ A cloud comes over the sunlit arch/ A wind comes off a frozen peak/ And you're two months back in the middle of March." March weather is unsettled and unpredictable. It makes me impatient for it to settle down. Just when I think I can get out and begin the new gardening year, along comes a nasty day that makes me postpone the anticipated season. But let's enjoy the forced leisure.
Regardless of our experience, the orb we reside on (whether we asked for the ride or not) continues inexorably to hurtle through space rotating about its axis and revolving around our sun. As that axis ceases to point away from the sun and reaches the point where it is half-way between pointing away and pointing towards the sun that point marks the equinox. This happens twice a year. The last time it marked the end of summer. This time it marks the end of winter, and as winter ends, spring begins with the spring equinox which arrives on March 20. The Romans began their new year in March and gardeners should too. After all it is pretty arbitrary when the New Year begins. Why not begin the year when the days are getting longer and warmer and the plants are beginning to spring to life? And gardeners are springing to life too. It is truly the beginning of the New Year. Let's have a spring's eve party on the 19th.
While we are getting our astronomical bearings look to the sky at night. We have our last chance to see the winter constellation that I like to think of as the Irish constellation, Orion! Soon it will no longer be visible until next winter. This also marks the end of winter.
March also begins daylight savings time. Everything that's old is new again. Plants begin to bloom, animals are generating a new generation. Birds are returning. Some have already nested. Buds are swelling. The sap has been running, ( some for office), people are walking and some bugs are crawling. It is the beginning. Happy New Year!
Things to do in the garden:
Begin fertilizing houseplants with a weak solution. Now is a good time to propagate houseplants. Have your soil tested. Materials and directions are normally available at the OSU Extension Office.The last average frost date here in zone 6B is April 23rd. That means there is a 50/50 chance of frost on that date. A number of seeds should be started this month. Check your seed packet for the number of days to harvest and count back to the date you want to plant your seeds or set out your plants. A word to the wise, don’t set out your plants too early unless you are prepared to protect them should the odds work against you.
Rake the lawn to remove the twigs, leaves, and other winter detritus. Mow high, 3-4 inches. Dig out those biennial weeds before they get established. Now is a good time to plant evergreen and other trees and shrubs and bare root roses. The earlier you transplant perennials the better they will do. When is the soil ready to be worked? Soil that sticks to your spade is too wet to work and will be compacted. Make a ball of soil and drop it. If it crumbles it is ready to work.
Before those buds break, spray fruit trees with dormant oil. Read the directions. Prune damaged, diseased, and dead limbs. Also, prune those limbs that grow inward, suckers and water sprouts. Do not remove more than a third of the tree. Prune deciduous trees and shrubs that bloom in the summer. Prune spring flowering trees and shrubs after they bloom. Prune raspberry canes and grapevines and fall flowering clematis. Divide snowdrops after they have bloomed. You can plant spinach, radishes and peas from seed unless the soil is wet.
If you cut back perennials and ornamental grasses (tying up the grasses before cutting them back to about six inches saves a lot of clean up). Don’t throw them in the trash or onto the compost pile. Store them until we have a few warm days (temps above 50 F) to give overwintering insects a chance to emerge. Pull back mulch from around perennials on warm days but be prepared to cover them back up if a hard freeze threatens.
Late March and April is the time to apply a pre-emergent to the lawn if you want to prevent crabgrass. The best indicator for this is the first bloom of Callery Pear. But be forewarned, pre-emergents prevent seeds from sprouting. Apply pre-emergent on a calm day. There are now selective pre-emergents that do not affect grass seed. If you plan to seed any parts of your lawn, don’t apply a non-selective to those areas. This warning also applies to areas where you plan to plant vegetables and flowers by directly seeding in the soil. A light fertilization of the lawn is all you’ll need.
Go to weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd for phenology information on when plants flower and insects emerge. Gardening questions can be answered at the Pickaway County OSU Extension Office 740-474-7534.
February 2026
PICKAWAY TO GARDEN
The Dirt on Soil
By Paul Hang
What’s the difference, if any, between dirt and soil? Both are the “skin of the earth.” It’s the stuff under our feet when we are out in nature, minus the vegetation. We use the terms interchangeably and sometimes differently. When we came in from outdoors with dirt/soil on our feet, our Moms said “Take off those dirty shoes.” Soil is sometimes used to designate a country or area of origin. “She’s from good Midwestern soil.” If you had an accident soil can be a verb. So what’s the difference between soil and dirt?
The EVS. Institute defines soil as, “Soil is a naturally occurring mixture of weathered rock, organic matter, water, and air that forms the foundation for terrestrial life. This dynamic medium supports plant growth, filters water, stores carbon, and houses countless organisms that make ecosystems function. Understanding what soil truly is reveals why protecting this precious resource is essential for sustainable food production, clean water, and healthy environments.”
The article defines soil and gives an eight page overview. In this brief consideration I am only able to overview the overview and overlook a lot. Soil is not just the dirt beneath our feet. What distinguishes soil from dirt is life. Dirt is the mineral particles with some, if any, organic matter, is compacted with little air and sometimes little water. When I went through master gardener training the most surprising thing I learned about soil was that half of it consisted of 25%water and 25% air. The other half consists of 5% organic matter and 45% mineral particles.
Mineral particles make up the parent material. The particles are sorted by their grain size. Starting with the smallest is clay, then silt, then sand. Particle size determines how much air and water can be held. Another type of soil is loam. The types of soil are determined by the amount water, air and organic material they contain. Some soils are better than others depending on what you want to grow in them.
Good soil is porous and biologically active. It’s alive! It contains microbes, fungi, bacteria, worms, and insects, alive and dead. The way to build good soil is to add organic material like compost. You can dig it in and/or use it as mulch that breaks down and is incorporated into the underlying soil. Another way is to dig a hole for your plants bigger than required and add extra organic material to the planting hole. The best way to find out about your soil is, don’t guess, test. You can receive information on soil testing at the OSU Extension Office at 740-474-7534.
This was just a little dirt on soil. There is a lot more to learn.
Things to do in the garden:
Check perennials and bulbs for heaving out of the ground. Press them down gently with your foot. Make a list of plants you want. Inventory seeds you have saved to make sure they aren’t past viability. Send in your seed orders. When you make out your seed and plant orders consider planting more native and heirloom plants. Native plants are plants that evolved here and are adapted to our conditions, diseases and native pests. While you’re at it try googling the name of a flower you’re thinking about ordering. You will be able to see pictures and planting information.
This is the time to prune trees and shrubs (after you sharpen your tools). You can see their structure now that they are dormant and the leaves are down. Cut out crossing and rubbing branches and unwanted suckers. Pruning can be done to reduce the size of a tree or shrub to bring it in to balance or to remove overhanging branches blocking a view or path. Insects are less likely to be attracted to cuts while trees are dormant. Remember, spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after flowering if you want to enjoy the blooms. Summer flowering shrubs can be pruned now. Cut back butterfly bush (Buddleia) severely.
On smaller trees you may want to take care of problems yourself. On larger trees you should call in an expert to inspect and perhaps correct any problems. Arborists are in a slow time of year. The ground, if frozen, will not be damaged and compacted as much from equipment and crews. The Arbor Day Foundation recommends that you have Certified Arborists check any safety problems you may have noticed. To find them go to www.isa-arbor.com click on “Verify Certification” and then “Find an Arborist.” They will not recommend topping your trees. The City of Circleville has a Comprehensive Tree Plan. You can find it at ci.circleville.oh.us, in the search box type Tree Plan. There you will find lots of information on caring for trees.
If you dug up bulbs for storage check on them. Spritz them with water to prevent drying out. Throw away any rotting or shriveled ones. Water any dormant or overwintering plants in your garage or basement. Water houseplants with lukewarm water, don’t overwater and turn them a quarter turn once a week, no fertilizer yet.
Seeds of onions, cabbage, cauliflower, and other members of the Cole family can be started indoors this month for setting out in late March or early April, depending on the weather: The University of Minnesota has a good discussion; go to www.extension.umn.edu/garden /flowers/starting-seeds-indoors. Also Google Winter Sowing. There you will read how to recycle plastic milk bottles to easily germinate some seeds. It is a good way to raise a lot of seedlings for planting “drifts,” those bands of like plants that wander serpentinely through flower beds. Now is a good time to start building raised vegetable garden
January 2026
Pickaway to Garden
Why Do We Garden?
By Paul Hang
Why do we garden? There are lots of reasons. We garden for ourselves, for others; either to give our neighbors pleasure or to “keep up with the Joneses.” We garden for our health, for exercise, for healthy food, peace of mind. Perhaps we garden in memory of those who influenced or taught us to garden, a gardening mentor. There are also other reasons why we garden.
No matter the reason, January is the perfect time to plan a garden, whether it’s a new one or an old one we want to change. Lately, in the garden literature, there is emphasis on more ethical reasons for gardening. More and more seed catalogs are offering seed and plant mixes to garden for pollinators, for birds, for butterflies, for native plants, for the ecology. Doug Tallamy, the author of “Bringing Nature Home” and other books on ecology, talks about gardens as “gas stations” for birds and butterflies on migration “road trips.” His latest effort is to encourage us to plant native plants to create a Homegrown National Park of home gardens that would collectively put more land in native plants than all of our National Parks combined. Check out: www.homegrownationalpark.org/keystone-plants.
Native plants have developed symbiotic relationships with native wildlife. There are relationships which are so specific that an animal can only rely on a specific plant to survive, e.g. the Monarch butterfly and milkweed. To go one step further, there are certain “Keystone Plants” that are native species that are disproportionately important to local ecosystems. These are plants that are more impactful than others. Native plants have strong relationships with wildlife formed over thousands of years that provide sources of food, cover and places to raise young. Without these native plants wildlife cannot survive. The National Wildlife Federation on their website (www.nwf.org/keystone plants) has a Keystone Plants by Region where you can find what native plants are best for our region. We are in the Eastern Temperate Forests ecological region.
Another informative discussion of Keystone plants is in the current January 5 newsletter, A Way to Garden, “New Rules for the New Year.” by Margaret Roach. In addition to her excellent newsletter, she writes a gardening column for The New York Times. The conversation in the newsletter is with Uli Lorimer, the Director of Horticulture at the Native Plant Trust. “96% of our terrestrial birds rely on insects supported by keystone plants.” Every caterpillar is a future butterfly or moth.
A number of Keystone Native Plants for our region are familiar. Just a few are: White Oak, Sugar Maple, River Birch, Northern highbush blueberry, Sunflower, Black eyed susan, aster and goldenrod, and many, many more. When you think about it, planting with more native plants to better our ecosystem is really gardening for us, our neighbors and our planet Earth. What more reasons could we need?
Things to do in the garden:
The list of things to do in the garden has gotten shorter. Things we can do about gardening are: Review last year's garden; draw a map while you can still remember what grew where. Plan your gardens and plantings. One of my favorite guides for this is The Ohio Gardening Guide by Jerry Minnich.
Check your supply of old seeds. Are they expired? Do you want to reorder that variety? Read your new seed catalogs. Want more seed catalogs? Go to gardeningplaces.com. Order seeds and plants of new varieties that you want now. They usually sell out quickly. Wood ashes from the fireplace can be spread in the garden but don’t overdo it. Have your soil tested to make sure your soil pH needs to be raised before adding them.
By the end of the month, you can begin to grow members of the Allium family (Onions, Leeks, Garlic and Shallots) from seed indoors. Get your seed starting supplies together. Provide plenty of light to new seedlings.
Cut back on watering your houseplants and don’t fertilize until March or April when growth begins as the amount of light lengthens, rinse/dust leaves, turn the pots every few days. Repot if needed. Water your poinsettias when the top of the soil gets dry. When they are looking ragged throw them on the compost heap. The same goes for paper whites. In my opinion, it is not worth trying to get them to bloom again. If you like a challenge, go ahead but be prepared for disappointment. Amaryllis and Christmas cactus are exceptions and can be kept for re-blooming. Check the internet for instructions. Check stored bulbs, roots and produce. Remove and throw out damaged materials. Don’t use salt on sidewalks and drives near plants.
Establish a new bed by placing black plastic or several layers of newspaper, cardboard or even old carpet down over the area you’ve chosen for the new bed. Weight it down so the wind doesn’t disturb it. By late spring the vegetation under it should be dead and the space ready for planting.
Learn to sharpen your tools, trowels, pruners, spades and if you are adventurous, your mower blades. Oil them and use linseed oil on the wooden handles. Getting rid of a cut live Christmas tree? Don’t. Use it to serve as a wind break for evergreens. Cut the branches off and use them as mulch for perennials. Put it near your bird feeders as cover. Decorate it with suet, fruit, seed cakes, as a bird feeder. Chip it for mulch. If you have a pond, sink it for structure cover for fish. The needles can also be mulch and will not make the soil too acidic. If you had a balled live Christmas tree, plant it ASAP.
Some gardening resolutions: Rotate vegetable crops; water the base of plants, not from above; weed and mulch; use row covers; water newly planted trees and shrubs and check for injury, protect with collars; visit and scout your garden often. Happy New Year.
